Lava steak and thick mole at Tulum
Good local eats
The mole poblano at Tulum in East Somerville.
You have to love eateries where stepping through their doors brings you into another world, somewhere far away, across a sea or a gulf – perhaps the Gulf of America, or is it the Gulf of Mexico? Let’s stick with the latter. Beside the fact that we need to stop the nonsensical wave of egotistical chauvinism behind a Trump-enforced name change (sadly, Google Maps has acquiesced), it’s more apt when talking about Tulum Mexican Cuisine in Somerville. It takes its name from the gulfside destination just south of spring-break hookup hub Cancun. To get to your sliver of paradise from the bustling stretch of Washington Street that connects Union Square to Sullivan Square, providing key access to Encore, Assembly Row and Route 93, you walk up a short, narrow entryway, through an opaque glass door and into a Caribbean tiki bar of sorts awash in vibrant Day-Glo hues. There are nine bar seats and seven or eight dinner-styled tables with two or three family-size arrangements that can accommodate larger parties. The bar hums with warm, muted greens and blues and an impressive array of top-shelf tequilas on display in cool hexagonal racking.
The space had been the home of the Foundation Kitchen, a food incubator spot that became home to many gastronomic startups during the Covid pandemic. The menu, as you can imagine, covers the basics: enchiladas, tacos, fajitas, cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pork marinated in citrus) and chiles rellenos. It’s all a cut above, but there are some changeups, namely the Lava Steak, a prime 8-ounce cut served on a sizzling hot stone, and a mixed grill for two – Volcano Molcajete, done al pastor. The fajitas, with chicken, shrimp and steak options, come in generous servings that could also make a meal for two.
On the smaller-plates slate there’s shaved street corn and glorious guacamole, made fresh and served in a stone mortar. The appetizers of shrimp, or camarones, intrigue too: There’s prawns wrapped in crisp bacon and the Shrimp de la Casa, in which the tiny swimmers are sautéed in white wine and garlic and served atop a bed of that shaved street corn and red peppers. The shrimp are succulent and easy to eat, and the combo of al dente grilled peppers and lightly charred, well-seasoned and plump flavorful corn kernels makes for a win. Other small bites are flautas, tostones and ceviche.
The other thing I would direct you to, which is a moderate sized main dish, is the mole poblano, a tender chicken breast grilled and served in Tulum’s dark and highly viscous mole sauce. The mole is a winner, spicy and with pronounced chocolate accents. It’s up there with the killer mole at Barra (nearby on the other side of McGrath Highway). The chicken came with a side of Mexican rice that surprised with its fluffy, flavorful moistness and made good for mixing with the mole and a side of smooth and creamy guac.
As for tacos, all the bases are covered, and for Taco Tuesdays you can score six hand-held delights for $24. On Mondays, it’s half-priced nachos that come with plenty of golden melted cheese and your choice of protein topping and add-ons.
Of course, margaritas are the primary feature on the imbibe menu. The house margs aren’t bad, but I like to get away from an overly sweet mix and know it’s real lime in my Caribbean sunshine in a glass. The sangria’s nice and fruity too, and a nice way to slake one’s thirst as the temps rise and you escape the crash dash of Washington Street.